Club is in Bedford County on a beautiful ridge top....twelve miles south of Manns Choice, Pa., off Rt. 96. It's is a mixed shoot but always plenty of room to shoot with little to no waiting at targets. Camping is primitive but free, and cost is $12.00 for Saturday and Sunday, or $8.00 for Sunday. Food and non-alcoholic beverages available. Porta-potty for those side trips. 8^)). My e-mail is gdstout@embarqmail.com if you need more information on directions.

For your bow? How do you keep your bow from getting scratched up or worse? I was considering a bow sock for my recurve but I was interested about what you folks had to say about the matter. I would prefer to make something myself which is why I'm leaning towards the bow sock.

This should be released next week

The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.

-Socrates

Sometimes it is better to listen to the trailblazers of our community and have respect doing it...

Coupon code "facebook"

http://stickandstring.com/shop/

Having a wear problem in my shelf pad out at the edge .
Like the cock feather is rubbing hard. Shoot a blacktail elite vl
1916 48@26" shoots great perfect holes in paper groups good
Just after a few days it wears down all the fuzz off the velcro pad
Out on the edge? Also lw feathers banana cut im a righty .
Lets hear some suggestions it shoots great just irreatating lol.

I have some 8/4 mahogany that I milled for furniture and have some leftovers. Was wondering if anyone knows how it would work for a riser and laminations for the limbs on a takedown recurve bow?:D

Some high quality stumpin' was had today! Went on a 7-mile hike back into the hunting grounds to see what sort of fresh sign might be around, and of course, to mercilessly lay waste to every stump in our path.

On the hike in:







Spring is finally coming to the high country (this is at about 7000ft):



A little lunch break:



And then it was time to get down to business:





Came across some not-too-old elk sign:



And some pretty old elk sign:







What else is there to say? It was an awesome Sunday, and good to finally stretch the legs with the Quick Styk!

I'm at the stage where I want a decent quality back quiver for a decent price. I have an idea of what I want in a quiver but cannot find a quiver to suit my needs.

A list of things I would like my quiver to feature would be:
- traditional
- black leather
- medium-large sized storage/zipper pocket

I know rasher quivers have a nice range of quivers, the ranger is nice but does not have a storage compartment. Does anyone else know of a quiver which can fill my needs? Or if I can get a custom-built quiver for a decent price?

Also what length of quiver would I be looking for if I use arrows 28-30" in length?

Hi all! I titled the post new bowyer, but use the term loosely as it remains to be seen if I can actually can build one. My grandchildren are the driving force behind wanting to building them myself. I have three granddaughters so close in age that as soon as one wants to do something they all want to. Money has led me to try to build them myself. I'm thinking laminated TD Recurve. Hopefully with the help and info I get here I can make something shootable for them, as well as myself.:D

I've never built an arrow in my life, but I'm thinking it would be a good skill to have. At the moment I'm using either aluminium arrows or carbon, but I think wood might be good to try. Where do I start with building wooden arrows for my horse bow? I'm in Australia so not sure even where to source things from, but if I know what I need I can start looking.

Hi all!
My name is Mikael and im from sweden.
Im new here but not to archery.
I shoot only traditional gear lately,tried the compounds but didnt like it much
I have made a couple of bows and im getting better at it,but have much to learn still.
Thats why im here...and to pick your brains of anything interesting :p

Cheers/Mikael

The one thing I have noticed with todays youth is that you have to keep coming up with new ideas and challenges. A child will get bored with just shooting at a bag target or even a 3-D target set up out in a field. So most folks ask, "How do you keep them interested in Archery?" The answer is rather simple, you have to make it fun. Children and young adults really like targets that are reactive. Say for example balloons tied on a string, you can also put them on a target for extra points. Fill them with water and a bit of food coloring or even throw in a bit of baking soda(with air) so that when it is hit....theres a puff of powder or a small explosion of colored water. Another trick is to keep changing the targets. One of the most popular right now is zombie targets. If you have a shooting range close by or a gun store, they usually sell some cut-outs of zombies as well as other "bad guy" targets. Depends on what you are going for. Attach these to a bag target or a hay bale, the kids love it. Another great new add on is expanding foam. The type you can buy at a hardware store that comes in a can for about 3 bucks a bottle. This stuff really works well on making novelty targets and the only limits are your resources and a bit of imagination. Some examples are a soceer ball filled(remove the rubber tube thats inside) and even stuffed animals work as a target. I shoot a 45lb bow and the soceer ball filled with foam does stop the arrow! Hopefully more folks will post up some of thier ideas and hopefull it will help folks bring more kids onto the field!!



Box target with a balloon, my son nailed this one.


Here is a pict of the soceer ball target.


Here is one of a stuffed animal with the foam, it was a dog toy I picked up and it made a nice "Squirrel" target.


Like I mentioned before, there are no limits to the targets you can come up with.

Hi folks, just thinking of getting back into archery after many years of absence. This time thinking Traditional. Still looking and deciding. I would appreciate any advice.

I grew up shooting bows, sticks and string, literally then actually had a couple of nice recurves. Always wanted a nice longbow. At any rate, went down the compound road many years ago, killed a little buck then just lost interest.

I've gotten older now and like the idea of returning to the roots of archery.

God bless and have a great week !

Hi! I'm only new to archery after completing a clinic in horse archery earlier this year. After that clinic, I bought my first horse bow and set of arrows and I'm officially hooked! I love getting out and shooting off my horse, but I also love the stillness that comes from target shooting on the ground.
I have so much to learn so I hope I'm in the right place.

I've been a member of the Michigan Longbow Association for a couple of years now, but only to attend the Great Lakes Longbow Invitational (GLLI). I've never really been involved with the organization, but have always wanted to so I decided to run for council. Last weekend was the MLA's annual spring shoot and membership meeting in Fenton, Michigan and it was also my oldest daughter's 3rd birthday so I decided to pick up a tent and spend the weekend with her and the MLA.

It was a great time: 3 awesome 3D courses, events for the kids, campfires, and plenty of camaraderie. To ice the cake even further, I was voted in to council at the meeting! I am very honored to have a seat and be involved in the leadership of such a great organization.

Here are some photos from the weekend. Again, if you have an organization in your state like the MLA, I highly recommend you get involved. Especially if you are a younger guy. At 31 I am the youngest on the council but hope to carry the torch.

BTW - ANYONE can be a member of the MLA. Even if you don't live in Michigan. Our own Steve Angell (BowhunterGA) is a member and he loves it. For $20 you get access to the shoots but you also get a really nice publication/newsletter. Not selling anyone on it, but it is a whole lot of fun, and if you are willing to make a trip the GLLI shoot is TOP NOTCH.

A new Bark River addition - I can already tell this one will be seeing a lot of EDC and woods time:

Overall Length: 6.875"
Blade Length: 3"
A2 Tool Steel
Bocote scales w/red liners

trailmatesheath1.jpg

trailmatesheath2.jpg

Attached Images

• trailmatesheath1.jpg (136.1 KB)
• trailmatesheath2.jpg (138.2 KB)

Well, I've been a confirmed bow quiver guy for a while now, but for some reason, I just couldn't bring myself to put one on my new longbow, and so I started hunting around for options. Ended up purchasing a 'Duiker' quiver from Rod Jenkins:

img2188h.jpg

Initial impressions:

• It's very well made. Stitching is solid.
• Fabric is some sort of 'brushed' synthetic that is really quiet.
• With the large side opening, it's easy to retrieve arrows from, and to put arrows back in.
• With the 'storm cover' on (not pictured), arrow movement and noise inside the quiver is zero. I'd recommend the storm cover if you're going to hunt with it.
• It comfortably holds 6 arrows

I can already tell I'm really going to like this for stump shooting and small game. I'm going to need to spend more time with it to decide if it would be my choice for stalking big game. More to come after I've used it for a while...

Attached Images

• img2188h.jpg (93.9 KB)

I never owned a Hill style bow with the non locator grip, I do have a couple of D style longbows, a Bama Hunter and a Royal! My son LimbLover had Nate from Bama bows build him a Elite Classic out of Walnut that kind of resembled a Hill bow! I talked to to Nate last year and ask him if he was ever going to offer a "Hill" style model longbow! He said that he had been working on a model and had a personal bow built that he was shooting! I own several Bama's and I know when Nate builds a bow he won't offer it till he has it dead on! I wanted a bow built from all domestic woods real traditional looking! So we decided on Black Locust and Walnut! We dubbed my bow the "all American" I told Nate the length 64in and said anywhere between 40 and 50lbs on the draw weight! It ended up 50@28, I have had the bow for about a month, I am pretty much a R/D guy these days I have 2 Bama Expis w dished locator grips! The wider straight grip took some getting used to, plus I found it likes a B50 string much better than a fast flight! Been shooting it every day , I love my R/Ds but there is just something alluring about that Hill look! As usual Nate I gave Nate an idea and he does the rest and he always excedes my expectations!

A new Robertson "Quick Styk" that found its way to me:

64" AMO
#50 @ 28"
Bocote limbs
Rosewood/Bocote riser

quikstykzsmall.jpg

quikstykz2small.jpg

I'm really liking this bow a lot. At 64" it's the longest bow I own - I usually opt for bows at least several inches shorter, but this beauty proved too hard to resist. And the length and moderate poundage mean it draws like butter. Another beauty from the Robertson workshop!
beerchuge.gif

Attached Images

• quikstykzsmall.jpg (72.3 KB)
• beerchuge.gif (2.2 KB)
• quikstykz2small.jpg (93.5 KB)

The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.

-Socrates

A week ago I made the 3 1/2 trip to Cheboygan to drop the kids off at their grandparents house and popped in to say hello to my friend Hawley (Rhew) while I was there. Hawley lives across the street from my parents and happens to be a traditional bowhunter. He was integral in my catching of the stickbow virus and has always been there for questions, support, or “shootin’ the shit” over a cup of coffee.

Hawley has lead a life rich with bowhunting success and is always happy to tell a story or two if prompted, especially if it is for educational purposes. Hawley has enough bowhunting tricks and equipment modifications in his mind to write his own book. I am fortunate enough to have absorbed a few for my benefit, but my favorite part of our conversations revolve around “the way things used ta’ be”. Back when traditional bowhunting was just bowhunting and Papa Bear was a reality, not a memory.

My favorite “Hawley story” is the one about his trophy black bear; a state record standing proudly in his living room as fierce as the day he shot it. A Herters recurve and modified WASP broadhead (with razor blades welded to it) got the job done, as Hawley was able to take the monster boar on the ground from a brush blind only yards away. Hawley was interviewed about the hunt and it was published in a collection of Michigan bear hunting stories, which featured a story by Fred Bear himself.

Read the rest of the story here.

Hello all!

I’m Fin, and I wanted to introduce myself. I shot a recurve a lot as a kid, and then moved on to compound for a couple years and quickly grew bored with the technology driven mechanical world. The minimalist/traditional lifestyle has always been a part of my mindset and I have been dabbling in trad again for a couple years and waiting until the right time to jump in feet first and allow the addiction that has been growing to fully take over. I am looking forward to learning and progressing even more and I am happy to be a part of this sight. I have long been a fan of Nick Viau's "Life and Longbows" blog and learned of this site.

My little bow just turned 3 and will be getting a kids bow for xmas, and my 2 month old daughter will receive one in a few years as well.

I look forward to conversing with everyone!

Fin

Greeting Fellow Bow Hunters,

Before you know it October will be here and the rut will soon to follow! Well again this year a small group of us are headed back to Grayling for our annual bow camp.

Again this year we will be camping at Canoe Harbor State forest campgrounds located right on the beautiful Ausable river so make sure to bring you canoes, kayaks and fishing gear. The camp sites are very good size and they are very clean and well maintained. If you choose to do the group camp the rate is only $6.00 a night or if you use the individual camp sites it is $12.00 a night.

Like always your welcome to stay the whole week or just a day or two if that is all time allows you. Unlike years past this year each camp is on their own for supplying there own meals.

Last year was a great year for seeing deer. We ended up harvesting 2 deer however 9 different hunters had at least one shot and a couple hunters had multiple chnaces.

A couple of us are headed up this weekend to chase turkeys and do some early deer scouting so we will keep you posted what the scoop is in the area.

One thing is for sure and that is we always have a blast no matter what. If you have any question just shoot me a message and I will get back with you as soon as I can.

Hello everybody.
My name is Mike. Just got into archery back in the fall and getting more and more addicted every day. I used a 50 lbs Martin Jaguar Takedown recurve. Looking forward to learning from everybody. Thanks for sharings tips, advice and info!

-Mike M
ShadowJubei

Has anyone here tried backing a bow with burlap? How many layers did you use?

Hello everyone,

I have just gotten back into archery and have decided I would try and go completely traditional. So far no power tools used . I live in the Appalachian Mountains of Virginia, so if any one is near and would like to shoot once I get my bow done let me know.

Thanks,

John

Here's a short sabre I've been working on as a preset. I made the blade about 8 years ago, and just recently made the hilt and handle.

img0744jn.jpg

img0745gk.jpg

img0746q.jpg

Attached Images

• img0744jn.jpg (99.5 KB)
• img0745gk.jpg (116.6 KB)
• img0746q.jpg (115.2 KB)

Hey Everyone, I am new to the forums and a beginner in traditional archery. I am very interested in learning the way of flight shooting so I can go out pheasant hunting. I am going to have access to a german shorthair here pretty soon that has been a great bird dog in the past but will need some re training. My wife is also really intersted in joining an archery club with me so we can start shooting together, I am very stoked for this. If anyone has any experience in pheasant hunting with bow I would love some advice on equipment and stradegy. Thanks.

For Bama Bows it does, ready he full story: http://stickandstring.com/showthread.php?t=9548

Would like to tell everyone about Bama Bows and Nathaniel Steele. I bought a longbow from Nate a year and a half ago. I believe first one finished after his daughter was born. We named the bow Emma after her. The bow developed a cosmetic flaw due to normal
shrinking of the wood. Called Nate and he said send it in for inspection. This guy built a new bow which is more beautiful than the first one. We named her Emma 2 and I could not be more pleased. Not sure who else would have done this afer the amount of time that passed. I highly recommend Bama Bows to all my traditional brothers and sisters looking to buy a awesome preforming work of art. Thanks Nate and thanks Stick And String
Dave

Hi everyone, my name is Damien. I have hunted for several years with a compound bows and many more before that with rifles. I have become so fascinated with archery that I decided to try my hand at traditional archery shooting/hunting and so I just got my first recurve bow and so far I am having a blast. So bare with me as I like to try to learn as much as I can about traditional archery.

Hey,
Been shooting traditional bows off and on for about 5 years now. Always looking to learn more!!!!

I am looking for bowfishing guides in Northern Virginia that specialize in hunting snakeheads. Does anyone know of such a guide?

Greetings,
I am a new member of the forum, I'm from southern Brazil and practice archery for 3 months.
I am a practitioner of the martial art pakua, and we use in our classes the Chinese bow.
My goal is to find new accessories for the practice and I got here through searching the manufacture of homemade targets.

I never really think about my strings on most of my longbows, I usually use D97 fast flights on most of them! I have 2 Bama R/D Expis that love the fast flight! I even have one on my Selfbow that shoots great with D97! I recently got a NEW Bama Tribute Howard Hill type longbow called the All American, its 64in and made of all domestic woods mainly Locust and Walnut, Nate sent me a D97 and a B50 I naturally strung it up and put the fast flight on it been shooting the longbow for maybe 2 weeks kinda had to relearn the the straight limb grip as I have got real fond of my r/ds with the forward dished handles, after a weekend of shooting with Limblover I decided on a whim to try the B50 on this bow, all I can say is what a differance its like a totally differant bow it reacts WAY better with the B50, much softer feeling and smoother i have several B50s in that length so i am in business plus the D97 fits my 64 bama Expi so I win either way! The moral of this story is don't be afraid to try differant string materials you just might be surprised!

Not sure this is the right place for this....

I'm looking for a takedown bow for a hunting trip next fall (as I'll have to travel by plane) and am seriously thinking of a Samick Sage. The bow I currently shoot is a bamboo backed hickory, 68" NTN that pulls 81 lbs at my 31" draw. Would a 60 lb at 28" Sage be close to that? I'm not terribly familiar with store bought traditional bows as I have honestly always made my own.

Hello, Ive only been in Wyoming for 2 years and so far from a hunting stand point, WOW. I started off as a compound shooter but switched to a Black Widow Recurve about 6 years ago. And i've never had more fun with a bow and arrow as I do now! I have 4 kids who love outdoor activities, my oldest will be hunting big game with me next year!

Well…I’m at it again. Actually, in the case of this particular bow, I’ve been at it for a few months. I could blame it on the kids keeping me busy, or work, but I’d rather just come clean and tell you that up until last week I haven’t been in the mood to work on a bow. I’ve been having too much fun shooting the bows I have — bought or made.

One would think I would have spent the dreary, Michigan winter months tucked away in my workshop building bows for the summer and fall. It would make sense to hiberante given the lack of suitable hunting days and the absence of game, but I do most of my roving/stumping in the winter. If find getting bundled up and having an adventure far too appealing. I use this time to see where the deer are moving, how many there are, and scout out possible ground blind locations based on where others sat the previous year.

I guess I’d rather stretch the legs and the spirit than shave down a bow in the basement. Don’t get me wrong, working on a bow is spiritual in its own right, but I’d much rather do it on my deck, watching the kids play in the yard. There’s more room, less mess, and it has a completely different vibe than building indoors. It makes sense really; a bow is an outdoor tool. Why not build it outdoors?

Philosophy aside, I have been working on a piece of American Hophornbeam my Dad harvested from his backyard, and it has been given me fits. This was my first experience building a bow from a log and this particular one contained more challenge than usable wood. The fact I knew nothing of Hophornbeam or “Iron Wood” didn’t help my situation.

This is a little long for a forum...read more here.

Ever go shoot your bow just to wear your new arm guard?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366295646.829727.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366295657.776395.jpg

Attached Images

• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366295646.829727.jpg (144.4 KB)
• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366295657.776395.jpg (127.5 KB)

Hello everyone. I'm from the NW burbs of Chicago. My son and I love to shoot the many 3Ds we have in the area. Though we both shoot longbows, I'm currently shooting a Samick Sage 30 lb. 'rehab' bow to get my tendinitis afflicted draw arm back in shape. Besides my son, I hope to get my daughter and their two cousins out with me this summer.

-Gorbin

just got back into shooting my long bow a few years ago. Love It

I have Been having a great time making bows and gotten so much good advice from this forum so here are some pictures of my last few bows. The four longer ones are hickory board bows the shorter is form a sour orange I cut done and it is my first true self bow. The rest on my snake skin bow "spot" is a deer antler base.
Let me know what you think
Thanks
Elic.

Attached Images

• image.jpg (93.9 KB)
• image.jpg (97.5 KB)
• image.jpg (107.2 KB)
• image.jpg (160.1 KB)
• image.jpg (108.7 KB)
• image.jpg (87.7 KB)

Reading about the anniversary of Agincourt coming up in 2015 got me thinking. It seems the promoters are looking to get 1000 dedicated folks to not only spend a good amount of time and trouble in kitting themselves out with a proper warbow and arrows, but also period clothing down to the underwear (the website is not complete as yet, so the details may change). Being a part of a proper arrow storm would be cool. But I don't really think I would get enough use out of a warbow to justify the expense. So I had an idea...
Our host here sells some you finish bows. Would it be possible to buy an unfinished warbow, finish it and shoot it for the event, then sand it down to a lower weight that I could use at the local field and hunter range? Best I can tell a warbow has to be a minimum of 70lbs (though that may end up being 100lb in the final rules). I'd be more comfortable with a 55lb bow on the field and hunter range. Seems reasonable, but then I'm not a bowyer. Any thoughts?

I almost ditched this bow on several occasions. I am happy I stuck with it.

My Dad has a mess of American Hophornbeam (iron wood) behind the house and cut me a stave about 4" in diameter and 72" long. He sealed the ends as I instructed, but not quite quick enough as the wood cracked on the ends. I had to cut the stave down to 60" after letting it cure for several months. I probably should have let it go a bit longer, but...I got bored.

The log was really straight but the bark twisted as it climbed up the tree. The wood followed suit. It split like a corkscrew, leaving me with a twisted gull-wing looking piece of wood with several knot clusters and cracks. I ran into quite a bit of bad wood and had to lower away to get beneath it, or re-center the bow to get around it. I did most of the work with a draw knife (which I am new to using) and hit a nasty crack near the fade just as I had the bow floor-tillered. It peeled away a large chunk below the fade on the top limb and some off the bottom. The top limb also had a knot cluster on the middle third that I knew would be a problem. The bottom limb had a knot straight through near the fade as well. I figured this was a doomed endeavor.

I decided to try to save it and push myself with a few tricks I'd read here and elsewhere. I decided to back the bow, but didn't have anything other than fiberglass mesh and a spool of waxed, processed sinew. I didn't want to waste the sinew on a lost cause so I went with the mesh and figured I'd practice backing if anything else.

I backed the bow, but the aforementioned problems made for tough tillering. There was indeed too much wood off the bottom third and other issues as I continued. I decided to reinforce the wood below the fade on each limb with the mesh and then wrapped it with the sinew and TB3. I wrapped other problem areas with the sinew and TB3 and kept at it, thinking I'd make a 25-30# bow for my wife or daughter.

I tillered the bow to be a bit uneven length wise, giving the top limb a bit more length than I usually do and by the time I got the bow as tillered as my ability would allow...discovered I'd actually made a 45# bow at 30" of draw and 61" length. It took a 2" set but has been holding really well and actually flings a 40/45 wood arrow a whole lot quicker than I thought it would.

I can't submit it for BOW due to the patching and backing, but I thought I'd share it anyway. It's ugly, but has a cool vibe and shoots real well. I learned VOLUMES from building it. lol








I can't seem to get this bottom limb to photograph right but the bend isn't as severe on the tree.



She'll probably fail...then again she may not. It was fun regardless and I'm loving how it shoots.

Not technically a build along but I thought I'd put some pics up of a longbow I just finished. I'm building a bunch for the SCA just like it so if there is any interest in seeing the "how to" I'll post details on the next one I build. It's a 74" hickory backed jatoba English longbow, 1" at the handle and fading to 3/4" at the joint with the nocks. The belly is rounded and the thickness obeys the 3/8" rule for the entire length. Nocks are carved from shed deer antlers and the handle wrap is 20 lb hemp cord over a glued on leather pad. I picked the combination of woods based on the SCA requiring 30 lb or less draws at 28" for their "combat" bows and this allows me to not have it be a tooth pick ( which hickory backed ipe or even oak wood be at that low a weight. Plus the combination of the light hickory and red jatoba looks like yew if ya squint your eyes enough :)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724611.438166.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724623.953005.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724640.134915.jpg

Attached Images

• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724611.438166.jpg (81.9 KB)
• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724623.953005.jpg (89.3 KB)
• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365724640.134915.jpg (72.6 KB)

I'm new to the site. I been learnin how to build long bow for myself for bout 6 month now.I'm just learnin lookin for any pointer and such
Thank Sgt Raab

I have been in archery off and on for the greater part of my life. and have yet to figure this question out I've talked with coaches, bowhunters, and semi-professional target shooters not to mention various archers I've competeted against.
Here is my question:
The spine of the arrows (wooden) that has been suggested I use range anywhere the draw weight of my bow (47#) @ my Draw length to as high as 80# in the spine catagory. my gpp is between 9 & 10 grs. per arrow per pound
Yet it has never failed that no matter which spine I shoot I have always had to aim to the right of the spot I want to hit sometims less sometimes more but always to the right. (I'm R handed ) because the arrows, for the most part, fly to the left I have tried diffrent point weights but that makes little if any diffrence.
The only thing I haven't tried is getting new limbs, heavier for my bow.:confused:

I asked this question on another archery site and it degenarated into a discussion on the historical uses of the bodkin,
All I want to learn is if the long needle pointed bodkin would be an acceptale substitute for today's field point when it comes to target practice at the butts?
As we all know a field point makes a round hole on a target backing and a broadhead will tear target backing to shreds in a limited number of shots whereas the field point comes out causing no more damage coming out than when when plowing into the backing.
The long needlepointed bodkin as seen on the 3 Rivers site looks to me as though it would do the same.
Does anyone have any experence using this bodkin on targets and what the extent of the damage caused?
is it compairable to that of a field point? Or broadhead?

Looking forward to being part of this archery forum. I am President of a local archery range here in Cupertino Ca. Bowhunters Unlimited. I am also an archery coach. I am always ready to learn more from other archers and their experiences. I also listen to your poscasts while taking long trips. Thank you for offering this forum. I will enjoy the opportunity of having this connection with all of you.

Soon to arrive at your mailbox.

Want a digital copy? Go to Www.stickandstring.com/shop

I should have totally of done this last year but instead I've been out using my sweet action Sedona Quiver, from Rasher Quivers. I had this made just for me (as my name is on everything). I went with the backpack style straps because of the maneuverability in the woods (which turned out to be a FANTASTIC choice in straps). Also in shown in the picture is my arm guard and pocket quiver Jason made. The quality obviously is top notch, I told him to "do his thing" with a steam punk theme in mind and this is what I got. I was going to take pictures after a LONG shoot today but naturally so geared up and excited to shoot I forgot the camera. Next time though for sure. For now though I leave you with some pictures. Screen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.03 PM.jpgScreen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.16 PM.jpgScreen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.27 PM.jpgScreen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.36 PM.jpg

Attached Images

• Screen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.03 PM.jpg (78.9 KB)
• Screen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.16 PM.jpg (90.0 KB)
• Screen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.27 PM.jpg (72.8 KB)
• Screen shot 2013-04-07 at 6.39.36 PM.jpg (53.4 KB)

Been talk'n with another potential bow-builder from my state (WA). Gonna meet him next month, on my way turkey hunt'n, and give him a couple staves. Been giving him some advice on tree i.d. and locations, hopefully good advice. Anyway, think I will give him this site as the info is better and no drama A.k.a. 'put downs' for inexperience. So hopefully I can recruit us another!

I had some fun shooting with the guys at Grand Valley Sporting Goods last night. It was slow from 6 on so the owners let us fling some arrows on the house. We played a lot of "Follow the Leader", which included shooting at these little foam golf balls from 10 and 15 yards out. Not as easy as it looks though you can tell at least one of us connected. It definitely wasn't me.

A target this small at 10 yards is ridiculously hard to hit.

What are some of the more interesting things you shoot at?

That's right $7.99 for 4 full color issues!

Super easy to use and organized into your own online storage page for easy download.

www.stickandstring.com/shop

I shoot a 45lb r/d longbow.when I asked my local shop owner about picking the right spine for arrows he told me not to worry about it and pulled a ready made set off the shelf. When I asked about paper tuning he chuckled and said something to the effect of "its your time to waste if you want". Now I know a bit about this guys history and ability. He knows his stuff even if he does not always articulate it. My groups are coming together to the point that on a good day I'm tearing up feathers.
So my question is this; on a 20 yard indoor range what size grouping differences would you expect to see between carefully tuned tackle and out of the box kit like I am now shooting?

Been enjoying the podcast on my long commute starting with number one. was quite interested to hear the interview with John Hoare on relative speed shooting. I jumped right on line to buy the book only to find it no longer available. Anyone know where I can get a copy?
Thanks

Great article from nils Visser about a competition in China. Pg 39 Stick and String : Spring 2013 Issue

http://issuu.com/stickandstring/docs/spring2013

china.jpg

Attached Images

• china.jpg (80.4 KB)

nice to be here and my compliment for your magazine

Thanks for having me. I can't wait for some tournaments.

Great article by Roger Norris pg 21 Stick and String: Spring 2013 issue

http://issuu.com/stickandstring/docs/spring2013

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364915613.136348.jpg

Attached Images

• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364915613.136348.jpg (64.1 KB)

Do you use arm guards while hunting ? If so, what kind ???

I have been working a stave from a hackberry tree I cut down this early January. I have been running a fan on them, and roughed of of the 4 into bow shape, and clamped to a frame, and let it be, infront of the fan for a week or so...
and then couldn't leave well enough alone... :)

Once the tillering process started, everything was going as planned, the limbs stayed within an 1/8" of being even, no real hinges showing up, but the mid 1/3 of both were NOT cooperating, and wanted to keep stiff.
This is only my third selfbow.
Mentally and physically tired, I decided to put it away for the night (Sunday) and unstrung...and was horrified to see it was backset about 2.5"...

Noticing the type of scrapings I was getting off the belly, I came to the conclusion, (please correct me if I'm wrong) that the wood still was a bit green...so I re clamped to the frame, to stymie any twisting, and put back in the basement, in front of the fan again....for another week...

Yesterday I thought it felt extremely dry (I know, get my but down to buy a moisture meter) and with the first nice day of spring (55 deg and sunny) I thought what better to do than finish tillering outside, great weather, while shooting the other for reference and fun...
Started out great, got it tillered to 55# at 23" (shooting for 55-60 at 30") all stayed even, mid thirds started bending...and it got late, so I unstrung, and was suprised to see it holding over 2" of set....(I have been using TBB as my guide, and have not drawn beyond my intended weight goal, and have been really watching for hinges/flats, to avoid the set)
As of this AM, it has relaxed to only 1 1/2" of set. Am I pushing the wood to fast?

Attached Images

• IMG-20130324-00647.jpg (81.6 KB)
• IMG-20130330-00665.jpg (130.7 KB)

Hello everyone, I'm Randy Edwards the PVC Archer. Thanks for having me.

Hi:
My name is Carlos and I am from Spain.
I have 2 Falco bows. A Trophy Vintage and a Spririt spetial edition with carbon limbs.

Cheers for everyone

I just recieved a PSE Talon and try to register with PSE and they ask for serial number,does anybody knows where it is???
Have a few numbers on the limbs but it come back like invalid numbers..
Thanks

Happy Easter to everyone and thanks for everyone's support of Stick and String Traditional Archery Magazine

Our new online store will all issues pdf downloads, back issue pack downloads, and emag subscriptions.

Stay tuned

This is as much a test as anything.

Here are some pics from our latest rove in the Hinterlands...

I just added some string puffs to my new flemish twist string last night and was wondering if you guys serve your string silencers in place or if they stay there just with the twist of the string. I'm using homemade yarn puffs. What works best for you?

I have been following Stick and String on Facebook and enjoy it Very much . Ken

Ripforce stopped by this weekend to see the grandkids and I made him bring his stumping clothes this time. We always shoot when he makes the trip, but never in the woods. We do most of our stumping at his place up North. But with a prime piece of stumping land within minutes of my house and itchy bow arms, we decided to escape for a few and kill some bark.

We were hesitant the first few shots, as it was still fairly cold and we weren’t sure if the targets had properly thawed or not, but the thunk of a well-placed ash against a decaying oak dismissed all worry. The next couple hours were picture perfect. Though a bit dreary, the weather was great with temps in the 40s. The snow had been melting for a few days and it finally began to look like spring. It was good to feel earth beneath our boots again and watch our arrows stick into mossy, wet wood.

We ventured farther than I’d ever dared to in years passed and by the time we were finished I felt I had a better lay of the land than ever before. Suddenly my world seemed a whole lot smaller and more promising. We found an abundance of deer sign including a bevy of runways full of deep tracks and a few really nice rubs. Turkey tracks were also abundant, giving me high hopes for the coming season.



It was good to see my hunting spots flush with game, but better to get out shooting with Dad. It’s hard being four hours from family, especially when it is likely we’d be doing this every weekend if given the opportunity, but you take what you can get. As sure as the bow remembers the bend, we’ll never forget.

Hi All,

I'm new to archery, and I hope to learn as much as I can from all your experience archers.

Thank you.

Up to this point I have only made board bows 5 hickory and 3 red oak and I wanted to try my hand at a "real" bow so I went out and cut down a really nice looking hickory (9ft) and a 60" section of sour orange and wanted to know how to proceed should I split them to rough dimensions or should I use my band saw? What should be the layout width, thickness, taper down the limbs Ect. If any one has links to some build alongs or a site that could help that would be great I have read bowlers bible I,II and am looking for more specific advice.
Thanks for all the help so far

Elic.

I shoot a 1967 Kodiak Hunter that was my late uncle's Although I do shoot a compound as well, I look forward to getting better with my recurve. I like the simplicity of traditional tackle, along with the SUBSTANTIAL weight savings during hunting season.

Page 28 Stick and String - Spring 2013 Issue

www.stickandstring.com

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364129729.455326.jpg

Attached Images

• ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364129729.455326.jpg (84.5 KB)

Good day,

Is anyone familiar with the general equations or rules of thumb for the dimensions of a self bow and bowstring based on specific parameters desired for the bow? In my case, I'm aiming for a 74" long bow, 72" knock-to-knock, with a 50lbs draw weight at a 27" draw length.

For example, I've been told that the draw length of a bow is based on my arm span. So, assuming I held my arms wide apart as if I was about to try and bear hug a giant tree, the distance from fingertip-to-fingertip would be "X", in my case 68 inches. I'm then supposed to divide that number by 2.5, and that is my ideal draw length. So ideal draw length in my case is roughly 27 inches. I've held a tape measure up to my face in a drawn position, and it feels about right.

Next, the bow should be around my height, end-to-end. I'm 5'11", so I was going to make a 74" long self bow, and have the knocks an inch below each end for a 72" knock-to-knock length. Is it okay if the bow is slightly longer than I am tall?

Finally, how long should the bowstring be? If the bow is 74" end-to-end, and 72" knock-to-knock, what length of bowstring should I use, and what should the at-rest draw length be (ie: the distance from the string to the handle)? I know that when making bowstrings, I'd use about an 85" length of strands to make a 60" bowstring. Also, in my (limited) experience, I've found that with a traditional Flemish twist bowstring used on a self bow, the string is generally 3" shorter than the knock-to-knock length, so I'd aim for a 69" string made from about 94" of material.

Thank you!

Good day,

Is anyone familiar with the general equations or rules of thumb for the dimensions of a selfbow and bowstring based on specific parameters desired for the bow? In my case, I'm aiming for a 74" long bow, 72" knock-to-knock, with a 50lbs draw weight at a 27" draw length.

For example, I've been told that the draw length of a bow is based on my arm span. So, assuming I held my arms wide apart as if I was about to try and bear hug a giant tree, the distance from fingertip-to-fingertip would be "X", in my case 68 inches. I'm then supposed to divide that number by 2.5, and that is my ideal draw length. So ideal draw length in my case is roughly 27 inches. I've held a tape measure up to my face in a drawn position, and it feels about right.

Next, the bow should be around my height, end-to-end. I'm 5'11", so I was going to make a 74" long self bow, and have the knocks an inch below each end for a 72" knock-to-knock length. Is it okay if the bow is slightly longer than I am tall?

Finally, how long should the bowstring be? If the bow is 74" end-to-end, and 72" knock-to-knock, what length of bowstring should I use, and what should the at-rest draw length be (ie: the distance from the string to the handle)?

Background info:
I've built three simple self bows sow far. My first (a toy basically) was a 56" long self bow made of Douglas fir with a fiberglass and marine epoxy backing. It only drew 20 lbs, and although it didn't break, it was weakening, and probably only held together by the backing.

My second was a 66" red oak, drew 30# @ 26". Lasted for about 200 shots before it snapped and nearly impaled me through the neck. Final bow is another red oak at 70", 40# draw @ 27". Feels good, and is fairly accurate, but I'd like to add on some more weight. I enjoy carving for the fun of it, and have some pre-treated hickory on-hand now. I could steam it and add some recurve to it, but don't feel like waiting three weeks for the bow to dry again, as I only get a couple weeks of vacation each year to carve the bows.

Hi everyone, I finally made it here. I liked the site on FB and thought that was it until just now,lol
Well my tech skills really need some work (:

Hi everyone, just found out about this site this morning, and the magazine, its great to have another site like this. I have been in trad archery for about 20 or so years now and truly love it. There are some things in life that i had years ago that i miss but a compound bow is not one of them. From the longbows and recurves i have had over the years, to all the folks i have met at shoots, it dont get any better than this traditional archery, glad to get on board.

Apologies if this thread is redundant but is there a clever way to find threads that I have recently posted in other than navigating to the forum and manually searching down the lists? It seems like there must be an easy way to see if someone has replied to my post.

Thanks!!

Some awesome trad articles, build along and survival topics!

Thanks to all our great contributors, supporters and readers!

Go to Www.stickandstring.com to read

I have a nasty habit of speaking in absolutes. I struggle with this the most whilst grappling with my ideals. When I discover something new, I surround myself with it. I don't know whether this is obsession or my longing for an affiliation or niche within the archery community, but I can tell you I do it often. My writing is full of it.

In fact, I am "full of it".

My situation is similar to a young buck in rut. I have no idea what I am doing, but am cocky and governed by urges and impulse. I love hard and I leap harder. I've had my foot in my mouth more times than I can count. I was thumbing through old blog posts the other day and couldn't help but laugh at some of the things I'd recorded and I won't even get into the daily archery journal I kept my first year shooting (may it remain unpublished for eternity).

I was a recurve man back then. I had a cheap takedown with carbon arrows and that was my thing. I developed an affinity for vintage recurves shortly after, but abandoned ship after breaking one. I then moved to laminate longbows and aluminum arrows. Wood arrows would follow - wood bows as well. I saw every transition as a sign from the Almighty and was convinced each would be the last, passionately defending them all without questioning my motives.

It all seems very silly now. I get red-cheeked thinking about it and can't help but feel like an enormous jackass, but the revelation really hasn't stopped the behavior. I'm still making bold resolutions and am carelessly chasing ideologies. For instance, I recently made the statement I would never buy or hunt with another laminate bow. Self bows and bows with natural backing were it for me. I would build them, shoot them, and hunt with them for the rest of my archery career or until the world exploded.

Now the bulk of that is a result of my reigning long term archery goal; to harvest game with homemade equipment. It is a goal I've set for myself, as I believe the self reliance of the act and the satisfaction achieved from it will be tremendous. Why I felt the need to alienate the glass-backed bow and bowyer, I do not know. Fiberglass bows are beautiful, simple, dependable, and effective. There is no reason a good one, if properly taken care of, won't last forever, or at least your forever.

Click here to read the rest of this story. It's too long for a forum post.

Just added this week at Simply Traditional:

Longbow: A Hunting Life by Jay Campbell - Such an awesome book. One of my favorites from 2012 $14.99

"A Bowhunter's Tales" by Charlie Lamb - Charlie is such a wonderful story teller and this book is packed with his tales. All copies sold at Simply Traditional a sighed my Charlie himself. $35.00

"Legends in Archery" by Peter O. Stecher - An absolute must have for the traditional archer. This book is printed at the highest quality. Glossy photos and a hard cover make this book stand out. Everything you wanted to know about turn of the century archery legends like Howard Hill, Saxton Pope, Fred Bear and more. Great reference book also. $29.99

Simply Traditional Window decals. 7 x 7 inch white vinyl die cut window decals with the Simply Traditional logo. $5.00 each

www.simplytraditional.net/store/

More items coming, stay tuned for an announcement next week on a well known line of products in the traditional community!

Hello everyone

check out there website and tell them Stick and String sent you: http://www.clixtrac.com/banner/click.php?banner=113571

Hi everyone,The name is Burt and I'm a active member at tradgang and now here

I am happy to be joining this forum. It seems like a lot of members here have some really valuable info to share.

My first question: How many twists are too many for an endless loop string? I've been trying to get my brace height to the recommended. The string that I received along with my bow measures about 58.5" and my bow's AMO length is 62". I've been twisting this thing up and finally got to the minimum brace height recommendation but the string seems TIGHT! Is there a limit of twists that I should put into this string, not only for mine and the bow's safety but also performance?

I've ordered a 58" flemish twist to see if this will get me closer but I am still curious.

Thanks for any advice!!

Glad I signed up on another Traditional website. Like minds should be together.

Hi finally found a great looking sight

Just wanted to say hello. I am new here and I am looking forward to chatting with some of you about a sport we all love.

I'm Berny, live in Scotland - like to shoot anything muscle-powered.
Started with English Longbows, then to what we call American Flat Bows, T/D recurves, 1-piece recurves,
horse bows - got obsessed & here I am now approx 4 years to the day since starting.
Started a club ArcheryDuns just over 3 years ago,
prefer to shoot field - 2d/3d.
Interested in bows from 50's-70's, esp. British, as new materials (fibreglass) started being used
through to point when compounds started to take over & the major demise of recurves, esp. 1-piece & their
makers.

Hi folks! I'm new and wanted to say hi. Hope to learn from the gang and to contribute when I can. Cheers.
RR

I am going to be building a bow in the near future and am curious about the backing. I would like to use an thin sheet of aluminum that I will paint on with automotive enamel. Would this work as a backing or should I find a new plan? Also, would the repetitive flexing cause the paint to chip off?

Thanks in advance!

I have a question...

Why is it that I read posts all over the internet using the term "Unethical" when referring to anything the writer CANT do?
like shoot over 20 yds
Hit a target in the vitals
Identify said target
Identify self
find butt with both hands
Etc.

;)

I just wanted to show a few pictures I took along the build of a new bow I developed together with my buddy Udo. The goal was to build a bow that can handle very heavy arrows with ease.

Fresh off the form after curing...
IMG_1775.jpg

Udo is cleaning the limbs and rounding off the edges...
IMG_1572.jpg

Strung up for the first time...
IMG_1810.jpg

Shaping the riser and the shelf...
IMG_1817.jpg

----------
Andy

Attached Images

• IMG_1572.jpg (98.2 KB)
• IMG_1775.jpg (103.4 KB)
• IMG_1810.jpg (126.2 KB)
• IMG_1817.jpg (124.7 KB)

Does anyone have experence replacing the face(s) on Bulldog Targets? The guys @ Bulldog say all one needs is a staple gun. But looking at the one I have it seems to be a bit more complecated than that. any advice would be appreciated.

I'm planning on writing a series of articles on the physics of archery for those who are interested. I understand that physics is not everybody's cup of tea, however I believe that a decent understanding of how bows work can help us understand how to design better performing bows, how to choose a new bow when you're buying, and help you work out why your bow doesn't shoot quite as fast as your mate's.

If anyone wants me to try and explain anything specific for them, please let me know. I hope this proves useful.

Hi all. I am a long time contributer to the leatherwall with the Hinterland roving threads and I hope to add to another forum along those lines. I am also hoping to glean wisdom from other stick and string enthusiasts. Cheers.:D

Took apart my BBH 60# last wknd. It had a cracked backing, belly wood was good. Added a few layers of drywall fiberglass tape and now daughter has small # bow to shoot. Gonna cut it down from 72" to 60 somethin'. Also, glued up a 66" BBY! Will post pics of both when done. Several staves should be ready to start this fall or next spring. Also found a dozen sitka spruce shafts I forgot I had!

Alpine Wool and Leather

http://www.clixtrac.com/banner/click.php?banner=112407